From Airlifts to Afterparties
History Never Sleeps and Neither Does Berlin
A dispatch from the capital of contradiction, where spy games, street art, and sleepless nights still collide. Coming to you live from my favorite kind of office: a Danish State Railways train bound for Copenhagen after yet another trip to Berlin. Train window views with the world speeding by and a chance to reflect on a city that never fails to surprise and intrigue me.
I’ve just wrapped up yet another visit to Berlin, one of my favorite cities in the world and one I’ve visited dozens of times. Yet every trip feels completely fresh and new. See, that’s the thing about Berlin: you can come here again and again and have a totally different experience every time. It’s a city of endless layers, full of complexity and contradiction, and it has something for everyone…and, really, something for every version of yourself.
Berlin’s Century of Change
Berlin’s history in the 20th century alone could fill a dozen books. Before World War I, it was the capital of the German Empire. After World War II, it was a city divided—literally—between East and West during the Cold War. The Berlin Wall sliced it in two for nearly three decades, until its fall in 1989. What’s emerged since is one of the most fascinating, open, and unpretentious cities in Europe. A place shaped by hardship and hope, concrete and creativity, excitement and energy.
Why Berlin? Why Not Berlin?
What draws people to Berlin isn’t just its past; it’s its wild, electric present. Berlin might be the most multicultural city per capita in the world. People from everywhere have made it their home. English is spoken almost as often as German, and the neighborhoods range from posh to punk within a few blocks. The city is deeply bohemian, raw, and in your face in the best possible way.
Five Things to Do (and One You Probably Haven’t)
Tempelhof Airport Tour – Easily one of the most underrated experiences in Berlin. I’ve done it half a dozen times, alone and with friends, and it’s always been amazing. This enormous Nazi-era airport turned Cold War symbol and now public park is a surreal place. The guided tour takes you through bunkers, hangars, and American military offices frozen in time. It’s fascinating for aviation geeks and Cold War history nerds alike.
East Side Gallery – A 1.3-km stretch of the Berlin Wall still standing, now covered in murals by international artists. It’s a powerful, colorful walk through history. Come early or come at sunset—this one is popular and visiting at off-peak hours is the best way to avoid the crowds.
Checkpoint Charlie – Once the best-known crossing point between East and West Berlin. Today, it’s a tourist site with a small museum and photo ops, but still a poignant reminder of a divided city. I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t drop one of my favorite nerdy spy comedies here - check out the movie Gotcha! from the 80s…it’s delightfully spy kitsch.
Pergamon Museum – Located on Museum Island, this place houses some of the most awe-inspiring ancient architecture and artifacts, including the monumental Pergamon Altar. I’m not at all a “museum person,” and it still kept me engaged for a few hours;
Stasi Museum – For Cold War buffs, this museum inside the former East German secret police HQ offers a chilling look at surveillance and control under the GDR. It’s off the beaten path, and you might have the whole place to yourself…which makes it extra eerie given its past.
Berlin After Hours
Of course, no visit to Berlin is complete without a night out. Berlin’s nightlife is legendary. Whether you’re in for a chill evening at a smoky Kneipe (Berlin’s own take on the classic pub) or ready to chase the sunrise at one of its world-famous clubs like Berghain or Sisyphos. Don’t worry about dressing up—Berlin doesn’t care what you look like; it just cares that you showed up—until it doesn’t. Just try getting past the door at Berghain…
Iconic Berlin Moments
Even if you’re not a history buff, you’ll be moved by the city’s landmarks.
Berlin always surprises you. It’s been broken and rebuilt, dramatic and also refined, divided and united. It’s rough around the edges and endlessly welcoming. If you’ve never been, go. If you’ve never been, go. If you’ve been, go again. And if you think you know Berlin…go again and prove yourself wrong
Happy Friday, from somewhere between Hamburg and Copenhagen. Have a great and relaxing weekend, and never stop dreaming of endless travel and adventure!