🌴 Low-Key Obsessed with Rarotonga
Trust me, I’ve been literally everywhere. This one hits different.
You know me…I’m not much of an island person. The idea of spending more than 48 hours on a rock surrounded by water usually makes me itch to book the next flight to a bustling city. But then I met Rarotonga, the heart of the Cook Islands. And somehow, this place, with its soft rhythm, lush vegetation, and firey sunsets, managed to get under my skin.
Rarotonga is the largest of the 15 Cook Islands, a self-governing nation in free association with New Zealand. The local people carry New Zealand passports. The currency is the New Zealand dollar (plus a few local coins), and the vibe is a warm Polynesian–Kiwi blend that makes it feel both homey and far away at the same time.
It’s a ring of jungle-wrapped volcanic peaks and white-sand beaches, connected by one loop road. There are no traffic lights. No high rises. No fast lanes. And…much to my great surprise…there’s damn good coffee.
☕ Island Skeptic Turned Island Believer
I’ll admit it: I didn’t expect to enjoy this. I like movement. Energy. Density. A bit of chaos. But Rarotonga snuck up on me…one amazing iced long black at a time.
My favorite work/play sanctuaries while I was there:
LBV Bakery & Café — pictured below, the perfect mix of good coffee, better pastries, and a DJ playing in the corner on a Saturday morning.
Beluga — artsy, lush, and beautifully chill. Try the eggs benedict!
Soul Café and Barbershop — a hidden gem in Avarua, with coffee that’s like rocket fuel.
🚗 Let the Loop Road Guide You
The entire island can be circled in under an hour. But don’t be tempted. Rent a scooter or car (remember: left-hand driving and beware the coconuts!) and follow the Ara Tapu Road. No map needed—just intuition.
Stop when something catches your eye: a beach where no one else is. A roadside fruit stall. A trailhead with no name. A group of women in colorful dresses walking to church. You haven’t really experienced a Pacific Island until you’ve gone to church with the local people. That’s the rhythm of Raro—slow, sensory, unscripted.
🌅 Sunsets. Sunsets. Sunsets. (And Yes…Sunrises.)
I don’t usually organize my days around the sun, but in Rarotonga, it just happened. Every evening felt like the island was throwing a private farewell party to the day. Every morning arrived in a blaze of colors.
🌿 Nature's Whisper
Rarotonga invites you to slow down and relax…but it also invites you into the wild.
One day, you can hike up to Raemaru, a gently sloping peak with panoramic views. Another, follow a dirt path that turns into a muddy trail and leads you into a forest full of bird calls and giant ferns at the Maire Nui Gardens and Café. There’s always a reward: a perfect view, the cry of native birds, a moment of stillness broken by a wild boar rushing through the brush.
I also recommend joining a local guide on an Ariimoana Walkabout—a slower, story-filled walk through taro fields and village tracks, ending at the very spot where Polynesian voyagers launched their canoes to Aotearoa (New Zealand).
🪨 Black Rock Beach: Main Character Energy
Just past the airport on the west coast lies Black Rock Beach—a jagged lava outcrop overlooking some of the clearest water on the island. Legend says it's the place where souls depart for the next world, and honestly, it does feel otherworldly at dusk. I came back a second time for sunset and watched golden light bleed into the Pacific while kids cannonballed off the rocks and a lone song played somewhere down the beach. One of the most quietly powerful spots on the island.
✈️ Island Ritual: Plane-Watching
File this under oddly thrilling. When the Air New Zealand flight comes in, people gather near the airport’s sea wall like it’s a neighborhood event. And it kinda is. As an aviation geek, this felt like my kind of neighborhood—and these were my people!
You feel the blast before you hear the roar. Kids wave. Tourists film. Locals glance up, smile, and go back to their ice cream.
🧳 Before You Go
Planning tips:
Bring reef shoes, sunscreen, and a sense of curiosity. Be prepared for long days out experiencing nature’s surprises.
Rent wheels. The bus works, but freedom wins every time.
Don’t expect blazing fast Wi-Fi—but it's there when you need it (Buy an eSIM from the local telecom provider—foreign SIMs won’t roam on the data network.).
Stay casual. Don’t plan. Let Raro surprise you!
💭 Final Thoughts
Rarotonga wasn’t on my must-visit list. (It wasn’t even on my long list but for the fact that once you’ve been to every independent country you tend to seek out semi-autonomous places.) But sometimes the best places aren’t. They sneak up on you. Slow you down. Remind you to look around, breathe deeper, and be glad that you stayed just a little longer.
Have you been? What made it special for you? If not…are you packing your bags yet?
✈️ Happy Friday and Bold Adventures,
Jason
📍 196stories.com